TUTORIAL: How to Dye Eggs with Silk

It's that time of year, Easter in the Christian world. Happy Easter to those that celebrate from my egg laden table to yours! At my house, like most creative activities, dying Easter eggs is an art, we try new techniques each year.

This year, this video tutorial on how to dye eggs with silk scarves was shared by a few of my facebook friends. I thought, heck, that looks easy and lovely, I will give it a try. I found the instructions a little sparse, so I turned to Martha to fill in the blanks.

Materials:

-eggs (as few or many as you want, my scarf was enough for 9 and and I didn't want to do a 2nd batch)
-silk scarf, neckties, boxers, shirts, fabric, etc. (must be 100% silk) mine was $2.99 at Goodwill. (Tip: look for small scale prints, you will enjoy the tiny details on your egss, or mix and match, I wouldn't go much larger than the print I have featured or you will get mostly solid eggs).
-scissors-white fabric (anything, old sheet, cotton muslin, old tablecloth etc.)
-twist ties (plastic coated if you have them otherwise paper coated works, I just found they dissolved in the water and were harder to remove).
-3 tablespoons white vinegar-water
-non-reactive pot (I used metal successfully, though Martha suggests glass or enamel and the video uses enamel)
-stove
-vegetable oil (optional - to give shine to finished eggs)

Step 1:
Thrift, raid your closet or purchase new, something made of silk. You will be cutting it into pieces and the dye will bleed in the hot water so make sure it is something you are willing to part with. Make sure whatever you use is 100% silk as they dye process used in dying natural fibers such as silk is what allows the dye to transfer to your eggs...you know you your fancy clothes need to be washed in cold water? This is why, they are not color fast in hot water.

Step 2:
Cut your silk into 7" x 7" squares. Note: many silks have rich enough dye that you can reuse them 2-5 times (depending on lots of factors) to dye eggs. Cut your white fabric into 7" x 7" squares.

Step 3: 
Wrap your eggs tightly with the silk squares. The video shows scrunching them around a broad side, I did mine scrunching them at the bottom (broader end) because I thought it would yield a better transfer. You can experiment. This is an art, not a science so have fun. The imperfections add to the beauty. Secure with a twist tie.

Step 4:
Wrap the silk in the white fabric. Make sure you tuck the tails inside as this will limit how much dye seeps into the water and will give you cleaner color and print transfers.

Step 5:

Place the wrapped eggs into the pot, fill with enough water so that the eggs are fully submerged. Don't pack too tightly with eggs as you want room for the water to circulate around the eggs to aid in the dye transfer. Add 3 tablespoons white vinegar.

Step 6:
Put pot on stove on high. Bring to a boil. Boil for 15 minutes. Remove egg packets from water, leave wrapped to cool.

Step 7:

Once the wrapped eggs are cooled, remove the wrappings. Remember, you can reuse this silk 2-5 times. With the white fabric, use your best judgement, if it soaked in a lot of dye, maybe cut fresh pieces next time, if only a little dye was absorbed

Step 8: Optional
If you want a shiny finish to the eggs, lightly brush them with vegetable oil. Once you let the oil dry a little you can gently rub off the excess with a dish towel.

Enjoy!

(Disclaimer, there are 2 blown eggs mixed in to fill the display from mom's adventures in Ukranian egg decorating from a few years ago (they are holding up nicely!))

Tutorial: Sewing Kit - Basic Sewing Skills

The following picture tutorial will teach you how to make a sewing kit. This sewing kit is great for beginners as it covers several basic skills - sewing seams with right sides together, clipping corners to reduce bulk, turning and pressing pieces - like one would do for a pillow case, pressing up a hem and stitching - like you could do to hem pants, top-stitching, sewing on a button and hand stitching.

I've included pictures of each step as again, this is a great project for beginners. To view any of the pictures larger, simply click on them.

Sewing Kit

Materials:
1 - 20" x 15" piece of cotton fabric
1 - Button
1 - 8" - 10" piece of ribbon (1/2" wide or less is best)

Equipment:
Sewing Machine (you could also hand stitch the whole thing as well)
Iron
Needle
Thread
Scissors
Pins

Suggested supplies to fill your finished sewing kit:
Safety Pins
Straight Pins
Needles
Spools of Thread
Needle Threader
Small scissors (manicure scissors are great)
Seam Ripper
Measuring Tape etc.

Instructions:
1. Cut a rectangle of fabric 20" x 15".

2. With right sides together (in sewing the right side is what you would consider the outside - the bolder print, the front, the wrong side is the back/inside/less bright print), fold the fabric in half on the 20” long side. Pin each side. When you pin be sure to insert the pins perpendicular to the edge/stitch line.

3. Stitch down each side about 5/8” in from the edge. Be sure to back stitch at each end. Remove pins. Trim threads.
4. Trim the corners at a diagonal on the fold end of the seam. Be careful not to clip the stitches.

5. Turn right side out, use a blunt pointed object to push out the corners to give a sharp finish and press with the iron.
6. The fold side will be the top, the rough raw edge will be the bottom. Fold the raw edge up ½” and press with the iron. Fold up a second time ½” hiding the raw edge and iron again. Pin the ironed side.

7. Stitch along the inner edge of the folded side. Back stitch at each end. Remove pins. Trim threads.
8. Fold up the bottom edge about 3” (just under half way) with the folded edge facing inside. Pin both sides and stitch the full length of the sides. Remove pins. Trim threads.

9. With the bottom of pocket facing you, fold the fabric in thirds like a letter, bringing the stitched edges to meet the folds. Mark the crease lines with a pin at the top and the bottom of each.
10. Stitch from the bottom of the sewing kit to the top, back stitch at both ends, following the invisible crease line you marked with the pins. Do this for both crease lines. Remove pins. Trim threads.
11. Fold the sewing kit in half, lining up the two stitched sides, mark the crease line with a pin at the top and bottom as you did in the previous step. Stitch from the bottom of the sewing kit to the top, back stitch at both ends, following the invisible crease line you marked with the pins. Remove pins. Trim threads.
12. Fold the sewing kit in thirds along your stitch lines. Insert the right side flap first. On the outside of the left hand flap, attach a button about 1” from the edge, half way up the front. Be careful not to sew it into your pocket, thus stitching your pocket closed.
13. Close the sewing kit again. With your 8” – 10” strip of ribbon, make a loop around the button. Line up the ends of the ribbon and reach them around to the back, fold the raw ends under, pin in place and stitch the ribbon loop. Again, be careful not to sew into your pocket on the inside.

14. To finish, insert pins, needles, spools of thread and needle threader that are provided today. At home, you can add a small pair of scissors, a seam ripper, a tape measure and more!

TUTORIAL: Handmade Christmas Stockings!

Steve & I decided to make our own Christmas Stockings for our new apartment!

Steve likes classic designs and I have a serious taste for vintage. He wanted a fur trimmed red stocking. I wanted an over the top, Victorian looking, feather clad creation. So, we set off to make two very different stockings. Here are two sets of instructions, one for a lined stocking (which can be applied to any shape) and one for an unlined stocking.

I'm proud of Steve, he made most of his stocking on his own. *High Five*

MATERIALS:
-Sewing Machine
-1/2 yard fabric (plus 1/2 yard lining fabric for lined stocking)
-Embellishments of choice
-Matching thread
-Scissors
-Paper (newspaper & a marker work great)
-Iron
-Pencil or Marker
-Pins

Takes about 1 hour.

UNLINED STOCKING:
I recommend using upholstery fabric. This is the only fabric I would use for unlined stockings as it is rigid. If you want to use a printed cotton, or other light weight material, I recommend the LINED STOCKING, see instructions below.

1. Draw your pattern on paper. Be creative! It's fun. Make the opening wide enough to fit the type of gifts you expect to receive in your stocking. 6" minimum is advised. 8" is probably average.

2. Once you have your outline, you need to draw a second line 3/8" minimum outside of your first line. This is your seam allowance. Your first line is your 'stitch line'. Cut out your pattern.

3. Cut out 1 stocking out of your heavy weight fabric. This is your front. Flip the pattern over and cut out a second stocking. This is your back.

4. Turn in the top edge twice so you have a clean edge. Iron. Stitch.

5. Finish the raw edges either by serging, zigzagging or using pinking shears.

6. Cut a piece of fabric about 4" by 8". This is your loop. Fold in ends, iron. Fold in the raw edges, fold in second time. Iron, stitch open edges.

7. Fold loop in half, pin loop to inside edge of opening of back piece. Stitch. Reinforce a couple of times. Be sure you sew it to the corner you intend to hang it from.

8. Place the two stocking pieces right sides together. Pin. Stitch around edges leaving the top open and back stitching at ends.

9. Clip rounded seam allowances up to stitching. DO NOT cut the stitched line. This is so your curves are crisper when you turn it right side out. (If your design has pointy areas like mine, clip off the corners as shown).

10. Turn and press. Your stocking is ready to decorate. I found the feathers at JoAnn Fabrics and added a little tulle bow.

11. Hang, enjoy and fill with lots of presents!


LINED STOCKING
This is very similar to the unlined stocking, however it is intended to reinforce lightweight fabrics such as cottons. You will be much happier with the final look and functionality if you line your light weight fabrics. There are various ways you can line your stocking. These are details for just one variation.

1. Draw your pattern on paper. Be creative! It's fun. Make the opening wide enough to fit the type of gifts you expect to receive in your stocking. 6" minimum is advised. 8" is probably average.

2. Once you have your outline, you need to draw a second line about 1" outside of your first line. This is your seam allowance. This is wider than the unlined pattern as you will be turning it twice and have 2 stitch lines to hide your raw edges (further explanation below). Your first line is your final size. Cut out your pattern.

3. Cut out 1 stocking out of your outer fabric. This is your front. Flip the pattern over and cut out a second stocking out of your outer. This is your back. Cut two of liner. If liner is plain no need to flip the pattern piece. If it is printed or there is an obvious right side, flip as you did with the outer. You will have 4 pieces after this step.


4. Pin liner pieces to right side of both outer pieces. Stitch around all edges leaving a 4" minimum hole for turning.

5. Clip rounded seam allowances up to stitching. DO NOT cut the stitched line. This is so your curves are crisper when you turn it right side out. Turn and iron.

6. Fold in opening edges, pin. Pin front to back right sides together. Stitch around edges leaving the top open and back stitching at ends.

7. Cut a piece of fabric about 4" by 8". This is your loop. Fold in ends, iron. Fold in the raw edges, fold in second time. Iron, stitch open edges.


8. Fold loop in half, pin to inside of back piece. Stitch. Reinforce a couple of times. Be sure you sew it to the corner you intend to hang it from.

9. Your stocking is ready to decorate.

10. To trim with fur (optional) cut a piece 2x the width of the opening plus 1" for seam allowances on either end. Cut it the height you wish. Mine is about 4". Please note, this is not the only way to decorate with fur cuff, it is simply the variation I chose. Right sides together, stitch the short ends together. Turn. Fold under raw edges, pin around opening of stocking. Take care not to pin the front & back of the stocking to each other. Stitch around both long edges of the stocking. Be sure to put the 'arm' of your machine into the opening of the stocking so you don't stitch the front to the back.

11. Hang, enjoy and fill with lots of presents!